Koh Ker – a remote Angkor temple in the middle of land mines

There are some things in life that are unforgiveable, that are beyond any possible redemption. Things that make you wonder about the deep vicious evil that lives in the hearts of some people.

 

After Pol Pot was driven from power in Phnom Penh in 1979, he retreated to the forests and villages on northern Cambodia near the Thai border where he remained until his death in 1998. He maintained an army and continued to wage war against the Government. In order to try to defeat him the Government planted land mines around the area he controlled. He responded by planting even more. Millions of them. Both sides are to blame, and neither side kept any record of where the mines were planted.

 

International land-clearing efforts by brave people, many of whom are local volunteers whose husbands or children were blown up by land mines whilst innocently farming the land, have removed 2.7 million mines. The authorities estimate that another 4 to 6 million remain. Many of those in Cambodia who were responsible for planting the mines, including the appalling Hun Sen, the Prime Minister, are still in power.

 

Over 20,000 Cambodians have been killed by land mines since 1979 and almost 50,000 injured. Most are farmers, wood collectors and children.

 

You are reminded of this terrible history when you visit some of the more distant Angkor temples. Koh Ker is such a place. A little-visited area about 120 kms to the north-east of Siem Reap, the last 40 kilometres or so of the road is dirt, and muddy in the rainy season. Taking a tuk tuk there is not a viable option. The road was only opened in 2004 but it is a back road and appears to be little-maintained.

 

It is in the region that was heavily mined. There are many signs around the area making it clear that it would be folly to venture from the main trails. Land mines still abound in this area, although the visit to the temples that are open to the public is perfectly safe.

 

Koh Ker was the capital of Angkor from 928 AD to 944. It is a fascinating place, quiet and remote. There are no villages and only very occasional buildings for many kilometres before the road reaches the area. It can be combined with a day trip to Beng Mealea or Banteay Srei.

 

The main area consists of a group of about 12 temples, but apparently there are over 100 temples in the surrounding area although most cannot be visited. Prasat Thom is the most significant. The jungle was cleared back from it only in 2007, and little restoration work has been done. The combined effect of the building collapses, the intruding trees and overgrowth, and the isolation give it a more mysterious atmosphere than most other temples in Angkor.

 

As you visit Prasat Thom, you are likely to be largely on your own. One or two other tourists might be there, but tour buses don’t get close to here yet. The day will come, but not yet. Tourist facilities are very limited, although the locals from the local village have the usual couple of stalls at the entrance selling drinks, food and some basic souvenirs.

 

You pass through gates, sanctuaries and moats on the way to the rear of the property where you are confronted by the inspiring feature of the Prang, a 40 metre tall temple mountain of 7 levels. It dominates the surrounding plain and forests. A ladder to the summit had been built but it is in disrepair and unfortunately is closed.

 

Ancient temples are still being discovered in the Koh Ker region. There are stories of a major temple, the size of Angkor Wat, but it is deep in the jungle and in the middle of a heavily-mined region.

 

Koh Ker will become increasingly important and popular. No doubt this will help to improve the lot of the local people who have not only suffered from the effects of land mines but are among the poorest people in Cambodia, which is a very poor country. Until then it will continue to be an adventure, and one worth taking.